Rich Niche, Great Eats In Puerto Morelos, Mexico!
On the main square across from the playground
Puerto Morelos, Mexico
Visit the website: El Nicho
998-201-0992
Reviewed by Amanda Trevelino
by Amanda Trevelino
The “festive season” is meant to be a time of good cheer, but in late December chilly gray weather (and maybe exposure to Ebenezer Scrooge), left me craving a warm New Year lavish with sun, surf, golden sand, maybe even palm trees laden with coconut loot. And so, that’s how I found myself on a Mexican highway driving south from Cancun Airport to celebrate 2014 near the ancient Mayan ruins of Tulum.
Along the way, my family and I visited the lesser-known town of Puerto Morelos where a man on the street told us not to miss El Nicho. Good advice, because this tiny gem is tucked away like buried treasure; only the line of hungry patrons and a small placard mark the spot.
Owner/Manager Maureen was efficiently running the show during our two visits, and we assume Owner/Chef Pablo was at the helm in the kitchen. The duo have created a vibrant, welcoming niche that obviously appeals to both locals and visitors with a small menu of healthy fare, not to mention a community board announcing drop-in yoga and other organic pursuits.
At breakfast, a tart limonata with chia seeds was refreshing. Even more so: the unusual sight of a farmer delivering an open tray of fresh eggs right through the main entrance is a testament to the local sourcing of their ingredients. We appreciated El Nicho’s application of Chaya, a regional “tree spinach” (actually a shrub) that has a texture more like collard greens and makes it’s best appearance sautéed as Vegan al Gusto on the breakfast menu. If you are vegan, Maureen Vean al Gusto substitutes sautéed greens for eggs. Or for a sweeter start, there’s nutty house-made granola served with Mayan honey and berries. An array of seasonal fruits (like papaya in Jaunary) is available any time. Cheese is plentiful, but so is avocado for substitution. The variety of salsas alone are worth a visit, and the vegetarian Charro beans, vegetarian refried black beans and asian coleslaw seem to be consistently reliable sides.
Possibly the most alluring item was the rich and spicy hot chocolate with a shot of espresso, but to explore that we’d have to plan a third visit. Instead, a street vendor with cold young coconuts caught our eye, and the sunny road to Tulum is, I believe, best traveled with a green coconut and a straw. Compass optional.
El Nicho, Avenida Tulum & Rojo Gomez | On the main square across from the playground, Puerto Morelos, Mexico, 998-201-0992, www.elnicho.com.mx
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